BOW VALLEY – Dedicated and ambitious competitive ice climbers are trying to pull up the sport to new heights and they're breaking the ice with the rest of the Great White North.
In a country known for its biting cold, snowy white days, and top-notch climbing terrain, Canada should have a lot going for it at international ice climbing competitions.
However, Canada's still a nation trying to find itself on the world stage of ice climbing and drytooling.
Ice Climbing Canada (ICC) is looking to change all of that, with a tall task of building a competitive international presence while planting the seeds for future growth.
“We’re kind of at a time of transition moving on to a bit of a new era,” said Nick Baggaley, who is competing for ICC internationally this season.
“There are a whole ton of really talented drytoolers out there, but I feel like it’s almost like what competitive rock climbing was maybe 10, 15 years ago. I think people see that as quite the niche activity ... I would like to help bring awareness to this as a part of the sport.”
Drytooling, a form of mixed climbing, mimics the challenges and problem-solving on an ice wall, except no ice or snow is present on the routes. Instead, the surfaces for most competitions are on plywood structures, with resin, metal or rock holds. Drytoolers still use ice tools such as mixed boots with a crampon bolted onto the sole and axes during climbs.
New team, new season
In a bold, yet fruitful call-out for climbers, ICC has put together a 24-athlete roster for the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation's (UIAA) 2024-25 season.
Along with Baggaley, two more Bow Valley climbers will don the Maple Leaf: Sara Lilley and Greg Barret. Janet Wong, also on the team, has roots in the Bow Valley as well.
Alberta boasts a strong presence of ice climbers on the team including the ICC’s chairperson, Jon Blackwood. Wearing multiple hats, Blackwood will compete and is leading the charge into the new era of national competitive climbing.
“The Canadian Ice Climbing Team embodies passion, resilience, and the spirit of adventure,” said Blackwood, in an email. “With representatives from across the country, this team is ready to make its mark on the international stage. Whether scaling artificial structures or natural walls, they’ll proudly carry the maple leaf with them.”
It’s Baggaley's first season on the team. The ACMG-certified apprentice alpine guide at Yamnuska Mountain Adventure. He got his first taste of ice climbing a part of an outdoors club while attending Queen's University in Ontario.
“I actually broke a finger, but walking up to the ice – still loved it – and then the next year I was organizing the next ice climbing trip, and so on, and we made it an annual thing until I left school,” he said.
Over the past few years, he’s been trying to push himself to get better at outdoor drytooling for personal interest. The studying and skills he's learned will come in handy for Baggaley during his first competition in Ouray, Colorado, at the end of January.
“A lot of the Canadian team are going to Ouray as a first experience because it’s closer, it’s a little bit less expensive because we have to all pay our own way to these,” he said.
Right now, it’s a pay-to-play model, but fundraising efforts are underway to secure financial assistance for future seasons. Although it’s not a big community of ice climbers, they’re passionate about getting over the wall and making things work.
“There is a lot of winter climbing out here, but we don’t have any kind of drytooling gyms in the valley,” said Baggaley, adding that everyone has a slightly different way of how they approach training.
For example, Baggaley and Barret made makeshift training tools, sometimes to simply hang onto a pull-up bar to train technique and strength-building. Another climber on the team, Matt Westlake of Cochrane, created a homemade drytooling gym in his basement. Several people on the team travel to Cochrane to use it a few times a week, including Baggaley.
With many skilled Canadian ice climbers, the dream is that the early days of the ICC will bring in more outside interest to the sport and what it has to offer.
“I’m just stoked that drytooling in general is starting to see a little bit more attention,” said Baggaley. “Hopefully some of that translates over into a bit of a more vibrant competition and indoor drytooling scene in Canada.”
